We walked into the lobby and I knew it had been a mistake. Not just the hotel, although that was definitely a mistake, a mistake of the sort that only happens when one is trying to build bridges with hostile future in-laws and accepts an offer to allow a diabolical sister-in-law to make all the necessary honeymoon arrangements, and if the lobby was a foreshadow of the rooms, of the honeymoon itself, of the future of married life, it couldn't be starker.
Walls painted hospital blue. A reception desk modeled after a nurse's station. Scattered faux-Windsor furniture in maple stained to resemble mahogany. Of course the hotel was a Ye Olde Inn. Of course the room was a screaming dissonance of chintz and fake Colonial. Of course there were modern replicas of wrought iron kitchen and farm implements on the wall next to the plastic plants. In the bathroom was a badly colored Currier and Ives print of a snowy scene of a covered bridge, improbable horse in the shadows, and a hot water tap that only ran tepid. Dinner in the hotel restaurant was roast beef, roast potatoes, roast carrots, all of which were predictably the color and texture of beef jerky, and were followed with an apple pie so heavy it could compete in the ye olde Skillet tossing contest. Is it necessary to mention that the hotel staff all wore some strange hybrid of costume, between Nathaniel Hawthorne and lederhosen?
We stayed in that ghastly pseudo-period piece for a good week, with its tepid showers and soggy toast and weak coffee and mattresses that seemed to be made out of straw that had been hauled in from ye olde barn in 1823, and during this week of programmed nuptial bliss we saw the Falls; we perambulated around the Falls; we boated through the Falls; we joined a geological tour group for a history of the Falls slideshow; we crossed a bridge over the Falls; we crossed the border and examined the Falls from a foreign identity; we attended movie showcasings of great moments of cinematic history filmed at the Falls; we listened to lectures about the Falls in the Guinness Book of World Records; and by the end of the week choosing between throwing myself or my beloved spouse over those goddammed Falls would have been too difficult a decision to make.
We sent Niagara Falls postcards to all three hundred wedding guests; we bought Niagara Falls snow globes, Niagara Falls keychains, Niagara Falls colored prints, Niagara Falls monogrammed pencils, Niagara Falls etched highball glasses, and Niagara Falls umbrellas. And of those items, the etched highball glasses and the umbrella were in constant use. It rained, and the rain was followed by fog, and the fog was followed by mist, and the mist was followed by a watery form of daylight, which eventually coalesced into rain again. The water in the bathroom remained tepid and the coffee weak, and by the third day we were both existing off of neat Scotch to make the rest of the stay bearable.
It was our honeymoon, and we thought we were in love, so we didn't even obliquely discuss leaving early, since that would have been far too perilously close to discussing the dissolution of the marriage, and no one gets divorced while still on the honeymoon; it simply isn't done. Of course the entire thing was a mistake, as I knew that moment I entered the lobby, but at that point I thought marriage was like cards and a good poker face and a bluff could still win the pot.
Not that I was a card player; not then, not now, since I haven't a head for numbers and can never keep track of what's been played, and maybe my disinterest in cards could have been construed as a disinterest in wedded bliss, although the minister in his prenuptial counseling never mentioned the connection, and it wouldn't have occurred to me as an apt predictor of a relationship. No, the minister was all about our duties to our community and to god and to each other, and how love weathers all difficulties, and children are blessings from above that develop the depth and warmth of blessed family.
Actually, I think the minister received one of those postcards, too, and I'm sure that if it alluded to the lumpy mattresses and inedible food and atrocious interior decorating, he would have just chuckled at the idiosyncrasies of married life and remarked that Job would have done anything short of selling his soul for such a moment of civilized comfort. But I've always thought Job was a fatalistic whiner with self-aggrandizing tendencies, and if there had been even a chance at a Faustian bargain: my soul for an espresso and a hot bath: sold, no need to negotiate further.
By the end of the week, hunched in the Windsor rocker in the "lounge," a quilt folded over my lap, a mystery novel next to a highball glass with my third whiskey since lunch, the feeling of impending doom that had lingered since we arrived grew into a solid lump in my stomach. Was this my future? Was wedded bliss a succession of rubbery scrambled eggs and bad coffee, while one's soul mate joins the six a.m. bird watching expedition, just for something to do? Would we raise children in a house decorated with early Americana reproduction furniture and kitsch? Do the holy bonds of matrimony preclude hot showers? Was this my sister-in-law's introduction to the expectations of the new family?
We still hadn't unwrapped the wedding gifts, much less sent thank you cards, but I had a suspicion that our new house was going to be decorated in maple furniture stained to mimic eighteenth century mahogany, that the living room would be draped in chintz, and that every Sunday would be filled with the word of god followed by an overcooked roast.
In the end, we were married for just over seven months when I woke up to the chirping of the whippoorwill on the Audubon society alarm clock on the bedside table, when I stumbled into the kitchen and found the note propped against the pre-programmed coffeemaker, and all I could think was -- I was free. We were over. Somehow I had to liquidate a fully furnished house and manage all the household bills in the interim, but there would be no further expectations from god or in-laws, no further trips to Ye Olde Inns, no further death by chintz or burgeoning family responsibilities.
I kept the snow globe and the highball glasses, and am thinking about paying a visit to the Falls sometime soon, perhaps, seeing how they've held up through the years, maybe watching some young kids just beginning madcap adventures of their own.
reading
This Sunday! 4 pm! Neilson Library, Smith College!
Morning Edition : "[if you say:] 'Write something; write anything; you can write a story about anything you want,' they can't think of anything," says Hornby. "But if you say, 'Write a story about a crocodile, a pineapple and a stair lift in a hotel,' then it will spark something up."
weather
alors, October!

